Tag Archives: lefts

lost and found: ghost of a shell

By ras | Published: 11.2.11
a few days ago I wrote about moving on -figuratively and literally. well then out of nowhere this piece of flotsam lands on my lap and low and behold if it isn’t the other half of Blacks busted stick. a ghost of a shell is all that remains. but hey it was good when it [...]
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hardly hullin ass in fog like one rubber thong (Made in China) floating in the North Pacific Gyre

By ras | Published: 25.11.10
was out at a mega secret spot recently. it was peaky and warbly and not real good but the novelty of its secrecy was enough to make us happy to be there. it was raining and super foggy that day. our friend z. bush -aka Mr. Bush, aka Fog Snapper, aka Slim Mack, happened to [...]
Posted in absurdity, ego, random | Also tagged , , , | 3 Comments

boulders and rips

By ras | Published: 12.11.10
I’m tired, so tired that my brain seems to be lapsing as my focus shifts erratically from one tidbit on my desk, to a page on the web, to a daydream. why? little sleep thanks to Mr. Pollo who’s yet to have a full nights wink. at a quarter to four this morning the room [...]
Posted in home, prose, surf | Also tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

email to a friend

By ras | Published: 8.6.10
hey D$ man I had some fun this mornin. got up at 4:17 am. the buoy read 8.5′ @ 10 seconds. I loaded the car with my thruster and the 6’6″ stubbie while the water boiled for coffee. at a 4:30 there was a golden light coming outta the eastern horizon already. I reckon I [...]
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lessons: hull tribe & w.s. burroughs

By ras | Published: 21.5.10
surfed the Hull below this morning. in the water at 5:35. the fog thick like milk and the tide so low that I had to wade out for 20 meters over the cobblestones before I could paddle. my Pops always says you gotta try something 10 times before you can say you don’t like it. [...]
Posted in absurdity, surf | Also tagged , , | 1 Comment

blacks and I

By ras | Published: 4.5.10
here’s a couple of shots from last winter 2008-2009. blacks tucking into a nice one me on a smaller yet perfectly enjoyable one
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trim

By ras | Published: 5.2.10
sure it’s narcissistic, and I love this photo
Posted in style, surf | Also tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment