non-conundrum

now that summer is here
it’s almost gone.

I can hear the rumbling cobbles now
as nor’easters detonate
on winter shores.

hurricanes?
they are like that pretty girl
in your class in college
she’d smile once a twice
but you’d rarely get more
‘n that.

so I start to think about
winter sticks
one that is sleek ‘n fast
but not so quirky
that I falter half the time

it’s such a mental thing
surfing is.
they all work
you just gotta find that one that
fits

no that’s not it
you just gotta go
paddle out
and be thankful
you got that far.

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style: Dusty Payne

this is why I keep Dusty Payne on my FS team.

another rad RT edit.

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hand plane – a whaa

got a radical gift from a friend the other day.

custom hand sled

ain’t everyday somebody makes you a vehicle outta pieces of otherwise stationary materials.

deep single concave for chest liftin'

so far I’ve only used this hand sled once but I’m looking forward to secret bank #28′s next pulse we get. high tide closeouts here I come.

dims

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style: Joel Tudor

rode my new log this morning and got that really good giddy feeling of glide. then I saw this photo of Joel Tudor and…

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SBC Surf summer issue

I have a little piece in the summer issue of SBC Surf. go down and cop one. I collaborated with Zak Bush on this one about pedaling and paddling,

Zak Bush photo

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Ol’ Yeller: a tale of lifetime friendship

most material things I could give two shits about. but every once inna while there is an object which happens to somehow create -by its simple existence. Ol’ Yeller, seen here exiting my house beneath E’s arm, is a perfect example of a ‘thing’ with the power to bring together and bind friendships.

E gave me this board sometime around 1994. it had belonged to his older brother Pancho. it was built in Brevard County, Florida sometime in the mid-70′s. at one point it fell off the roof of Panchos car and dragged along the highway by its still anchored leash, rubbing the rail raw.

fast forward to 1995. I was surfing alone south of Cocoa Beach at a spot called Tables . it was a time when longboards and ‘retro’ boards were definitely not mainstream cool. a tall guy with waist length sun bleached dreads approached me in the water and asked about the board. we traded off for a while. later we would be roommates, and later, that straight edge kid would become one of my lifelong friends -D$.

I only see E about every two years. he always comes to visit me everywhere I’ve lived -something I have rarely done in return. E visited me in Jamaica, Portland, and now Halifax. now we are both older, with kids, and infinitely more patient. but otherwise nothing has changed. we laugh at the same shit and can share silence like only good friends can.

when I left for Jamaica in 2001 I stored ‘Ol Yeller at my folks house. later in 2004 when B and I moved to Oregon, D$ kept Yeller and offered to get her patched up proper. he surfed it a handful of times and got the hang of it. but being a man of great surf skill, Yeller’s difficult temperament in good or bad waves made it more of a novelty than a daily driver. so she went into dry dock and we agreed that we’d never get rid of Yeller unless E wanted her back.

a couple of years ago I brought Yeller back up to Halifax. I only rode her once. there she sat in my basement rack, filled with memories and retaining her ability to bind friendships.

I once met the man who made this board. his name was Robert Strickland (RIP 2003). I took Yeller in to him to commission an updated version. he went back into his shaping room and pulled out an old template from the 70′s, blew off the decades of dust, and placed it on top of the board. it fit perfect. Strickland was sure he’d shaped the board when he was ghost shaping for MTB.

now, it’s been nearly 20 years since E first gave me that board. and today he took it home with him, excited about the prospect of riding her in South Carolina beachies. next time his brother visits and sees the old yellow board he’s gonna have some flashbacks. E will keep the board for the foreseeable future and hopefully one day our kids can give it a go.

perhaps it’s not the object that has brought us all together, but it serves as a marker for those years of shared experiences. and through our long absences it has waited in hushed anticipation, like our stories have, to be revealed over a shared meal and laughs.

we made a paella last night to celebrate the evening.

E, thanks for coming and I can’t wait to see you guys again.

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#identity part IV: Gringo Latino poem

this is a poem I wrote a while back. it continues along the thought tracks of identity that I’ve been working on lately.

Gringo Latino

I carried the sewing machine through Tampa International
it was 1987 and we dressed like ‘79
my brother’s arms too were loaded
with things that would not be left behind
I was scared
our mother nervous,
and possibly regretful to have left her adopted Venezuela
we were Americans on paper
in our small village in Venezuela we were
Los Gringos
my father stayed behind to sell off the house and close things down

I stepped into the elevator -two Puerto Rican girls inside
“mira este gringo como se viste, que feo”
it was 1995
I’d grown dreadlocks and my clothes hung off my frame like torn flags
I listened to them talk about me and kept silent
it was the same as before
my appearance never hinting
to my cultural background
blond, blue eyed and could roll my r’s
my mother still has the sewing machine
I am gringo and Latino and who would know?

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summertime

melon and wasps

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only God didn’t hear

time lapses between obsessive bouts with surfing, or something else all together. as I grow older a sense of deepening responsibilities to others also grows within me. but always, lingering there in front like a dangling carrot, is my obsession with self. what will I do next? when will the swell arrive? can I write like Arturo Bandini? at least I’m not as lost as he was. or Hamsun.

they were madmen. they swung from one heady emotion to the next like howler monkeys. screaming obscenities at the sky -at God. only God didn’t hear. he’s left a long time ago, on the 8th day. he went somewhere where someone loved him and treated him with dignity.

you think you know what is what? OK well then spill it. tell me. I watch my kid learn to climb and string words together. he knows more now about what is what that I ever did will. he lets the watermelon juice drip down his chin and onto his belly without a care in the world. all he knows and cares about is that the fruit is truly good and it is to be enjoyed without as much as a care for sticky red juice on his chin. I bet he could tell me what is what if he could talk.

maybe not. maybe Arturo and Hamsun were right in their madness. they fasted by way of destitution. a purposeful destitution only made rich by selling a few words here and there. sell outs. yes that’s what it is. the real muse is cash. we all know it. legacies are for birds and historians -whose jobs are to twist the truth like wrought iron, into some spiraling staircase. at the top of that staircase are all those words, bought for a pittance from some destitute bard. Bandini was an Italian from Colorado. his Catholic guilt was so heavy that even his disbelief in God could not lighten the burden.

so  I run. not for fitness or health. wellness? that’s what they call it these days. no. not for wellness. I run because it feels like Hamsun must have felt. those quiet moments of solitude and struggle. those moments spent day dreaming about a life that could be when I get it together. I run past trees and moss covered stones. I run past ferns whose ancestors were here before the dinosaurs shit in those deep deciduous woods. Thoreau was a fool for writing about that damn pond. Whitman was a fool for thinking he knew. I’m a fool too. I just haven’t quite figured out why.

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Neilson log

9'6" x 23" x 3"

I sold my log a while ago so that I could order a Tom Neilson. it’s done. hopefully it will be here in a couple of weeks. stoked. thanks Tom!

boards specs:

9’6″ x 23″ x 3″ Tommy Evans model.

I asked for an olive green tint on the deck and clear bottom. it has two 10 oz layers of Volan on the deck and one 10oz layer on the bottom. sanded finish. it will come with a 10″ Greenough 4A fin for some flexy turning.

I’ve had several boards from Tom. my good friend D$ has his entire quiver made by Tom -as do legions of Tom’s customers down south and in the Caribbean. Tom can shape anything and probably surfs better than you too. he definitely surfs better than me.

thanks Tom!

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sidetrack – New York City

been getting a little serious on Ku Yah with some of the identity posts. but make no mistake.

I’m happier ‘an a pig in shit.

I just think it’s good to balance good with bad, pleasure with pain. know what I mean?

if you want some extra good reading be sure to check Pete Bowes. one word – wow.

in other randomness – I’m off to New York City on Saturday and then to upstate New York on monday. I hope to go on some long ass runs in the Catskills and perhaps a canyon run in Manhattan. the surf for Long Island this weekend looks flat as a white girls’ booty.

and for all you New York crew from around Mollusk - me know seh unno love reggae vibes. I gwine lef yuh some nice vibes man. Mr. Perfect a juggle pop-choy.

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#Identity part III: the break

this is a continuation of a series on identity I started a few weeks ago.

1999- 2000

from August of 1999 until December of 2000 I was completely lost inna haze of mal-prescribed psychopharmcalogy, high-grade trees, and booze.

for several months I didn’t work and instead smoked a lot cigarettes, drank excessively, surfed little, smoked ganja, and rode my bike a lot. I was lucky at the time to have a roommate who quietly respected my downward fall and never lost sight of who I’d been before my zombie state. I lost most of the friends I’d made over the 5 years I lived in Orlando due to my bizarre and often unhealthy behaviour.

after a few weeks of not being able to function due to low mood and incessant crying, I was convinced by my loving family to go and see a doctor. so I called my corporate job health insurance, who provided me with coordinates for a psychologist. perfect I thought, she’ll help sort out my feelings of low self-worth and since she can’t legally prescribe medication I won’t have to take any drugs.

boy was I wrong.

after my second visit to my insurance Doc she convinced me that the best way to treat my ‘depression’ would be to have her nurse practitioner prescribe some anti-depressants, sleeping pills, an anti-psychotic, a couple of different narcotics for anxiety, and some pills I can’t recall now. in short – I was fucked up. her therapy was a sham for collecting paychecks from the insurance company. my prescription drug program was not monitored at all.

I’d find myself zigging and zagging in and outta traffic on my bike down a traffic clogged Colonial Drive in downtown Orlando without any regard for my safety. how I wasn’t killed is beyond me.

after a while I started training to race bikes -the sun, exertion and social interactions with my training partners boosted my natural anti-depressants and I had enough clarity to realize that I needed off the drugs. the Doc of course refused to lower my doses -said I wasn’t ready.

I knew enough about the drugs to know that I couldn’t cold turkey them lest I be beset by a serious chemical imbalance. I threw away the narcotics, sleeping pills and anti-psychotics. then I began to methodically cut my doses of the anti-depressant. because I was unable to get a prescription for a small dose of the anti-depressant, I was forced to finally go off completely. for a week I was disoriented and dizzy but I knew that the drug woud release it’s grip and my body would adjust.

***************************************************************************************
a word on psychopharmacology, health insurance, and insincere medical practitioners.

I am not against drugs to treat mental illness, nor am I against psychiatry or psychology. the science of the brain is still in it’s infancy and while treatment for mental illness is fraught with errors, there are many evidence based treatments with and without drugs.

but I did learn some very important lessons.

be careful with strangers who want to give you drugs. and always trust those who love you most.

***************************************************************************************

my Mom and Dad pulled me out of that first experience with depression. there were also some really good friends who stood by and maintained the thread of friendship. D$ being one those -he taught me lessons about living intentionally and healthy -lessons I am still trying to learn today.

so why the depression? perhaps there are many reasons. I won’t go into it here as I’m saving those thoughts for another project. but I relate the above episode because it has shaped my identity in ways that I would have never expected.

first of all, we are never who we think we are. that is, we each view the visceral world through our own cultural expectations and personal experience. and as I’m often reminded by my beautiful B when I think someone is pissed at me – “no one thinks about you more than you do.”

I often question the importance of identity. a long time ago now I came to a conclusion that the most important parts of life were personal relationships with loved ones, a sense of good health, and passion.

the year and a half that I spent in the depths of self deprecation left some bad habits and many bad memories. but is that who I am? are we really defined by how we spend our time? and what is the real value of how others define us?

the last question is one that confronts me each additional day that I go without being employed. just today I received yet another nice rejection note:

read your resume and have a chance to respond in greater detail. We have contracted a project manager.

identity in the street level sense is a slippery concept. at most it is a way for each of us to find our rung in the social ladder. and now that we can have an Internet identity (my Klout score is 51) as well as our walking identities, things can get a little cluttered.

and while I generally don’t believe in blind faith and absolute statements, there are a few lessons which help me to define me for me:

my ability to run long distances has taken a long time to build. through perseverance and learning to love the mental challenge of physical exertion I am reaching into a primal urge to move through space with my own grit and sweat.

I am these bones and muscles and tendons.

friendships too are built over the years with honesty, integrity and humility much in the same way -only love is the primal urge.

the paradox is that everything happens slowly over time and time is getting shorter everyday.

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if it ain’t broke, mess with it

before

after –

inspired by the Octafish sans wing.

too much tail feeling on the knull. it was a design flaw on my end. so I decided to jigsaw a squash tail first. too wide. so I cut a swallow.

with the fin cluster closer to standard, and the double concaves with vee still runnin out the back, it is my hope that this thing will be more versatile. there is a decrease in volume in the tail and the fin is closer to the rear for back footed turns.

everyone needs a funshape.

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jazz: versions – take five, in east vs. west

if you are a jazz fan then you may enjoy this 10 minutes of contrast and similarity.

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polyester – film

one day we will no longer be riding polyester surfboards. they are toxic as fuck, cannot be recycled, and are made from non-renewable sources. but like a good friend of mine once said when the topic of declining bluefin tuna came up:

well I guess I better eat it while I still can.

so without further ado – I present to you the Polyester film trailer. for all you boys that wan’t to call this type of surfing “hipster” surfing, I challenge you to ride a hull or heavy singlefin – and do it well -before you talk smack. that is if you can run what you brung at all. nuh watch nuh face.

Polyester – “official surf film trailer” from jack Coleman on Vimeo.

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#jazz : enter Pharoah

it’s not quite late on a saturday night. I put the boy to bed after a late night reveling at a wedding. he played hard and then fought hard to go to sleep. under two, and completely fueled by passion.

do you remember those days? of course not. our minds not developed for storing anything longterm. their sole role to learn, absorb, and adjust to everything. being passionate later in life doesn’t come easy.

I don’t know much about jazz -as in I’m no connoisseur. over the last twenty years different people have introduced me to records or composers. while I never paid too much attention to album names, or the names of players of instruments, over time I learned a few and can tell when they’re on the stereo.

one thing is certain about jazz. the players are passionate. and mostly they are low on talking and words. the melodies unfold with joy and sorrow in equal measure. each player allowed to investigate their reaction to the assigned palette of often dissonant notes.

you can hear it well with Pharoah Sanders. no holding back with Sanders…

…once a boy, who grew to man. he lives grown, with as much passion as he did before he could speak more than a few fragmented words.

I ask myself.

how am I livin?

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#poem : rumination

rumination

self aware like a
concave mirror,
broken in one place and glued
to reflect upon itself,
its shattered beauty mirroring detritus
after flooding rains,
plastic bags and dead cats
littering streets while mums with babes
beg for bread and dry beds.

self aware is ruminating,
like milk cows out to pasture,
the fate of those in feed lots
sealed with corn derivatives.
do ruminating cows ideate their fate?
or the fate of their kind whose meat
we feast upon so freely?

no.
self aware is the human way
of ego
of God, and me
and
you.

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style: Gonz wallride x2

from Vice

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post post

so after it’s all been said and done – it gets said and done again. it’s a post eat post world if you know what I mean. some call it surf blogging. I call it what it is. time wastin. surfing is riding waves -nothing more, nothing less. everything else is cultural artifacts, contrived capital, and fuckery. take surf T-shirts for example. OK that speaks for itself.

and blogging? well it’s a form of communication -an expression of one kind or another. most blogs, so far as I can tell, simply rehash what other people already blogged. I am guilty of that. a few blogs have new material -whether it be visual art, prose or poetry, film/video, or some other cleverly created material.

some blogs that have original material and that I quite enjoy are: warbles, foulweather, the estyonage, the fresh aspect, and others. [find links to these on the right side of your screen]

the point. this post is a post post. after the fact. it is written only for the sole purpose of the existence of these words on the interwebs. palabra y piedra suelta no tienen vuelta.

somewhere out there in the various basements and fortressed storage areas are thousands of servers, endlessly churning ones and zeros into this. into what we sit down and see on our screens each day. while many claim that it is an organized system, that companies like Google and Microsoft and others have things under control, the reality is that it’s just an abyss with some semblance of control on the surface. not that much different than our knowledge of the deepest parts of the sea.

these words, I see them growing across my screen from left to write as I tap the keys -always too forcibly. I see the words form sentences. sometimes I will place a period or a coma in the appropriate place. many times I won’t. these words that you’ve just read have no use, no meaning, no purpose. if you’ve gotten this far you’ve used some of your precious little time on planet earth to get nowhere.

this reminds of something. I am great at inaction. I am great at waiting for opportunity to come knocking. in fact, I may be one of the best passersby that ever lived -sitting on the curb, watching everyone go about their business. that’s gotta mean something no? legacy?

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easy like….

rain pitter patters outta my window.

with little and highly interrupted sleep, I trudge through the morning like an older man than I am.

I quickly regress to memories from before – a realization of reminiscing about the past strikes me like a cold hard hand across the face.

‘these are the good old days’ I remind myself.

so I download the Talib Kweli remix by Max Tanonne on my mp3 player and ready for a rainy run…

…and I do allow myself one indulgence from the old days.

Faith No More is easily one of the best live bands I’ve ever seen. and this track is perfect for my mood.

ps. thanks Picasso for the painting!

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style interlude: Tyler Warren – Blasphemy Rottmouth

Tyler Warren at Salt Creek from Jon Arman on Vimeo.

in other news

I surfed for the first time in 3 weeks yesterday. at best it was chest high, onshore, high tide closeouts. the best part was the beatings in one foot of water.

back to running, skating, and single track for the moment.

more on the identity series coming soon.

oh and for those of you who come here for surf related fuckerybe sure to add Blasphemy Rottmouth to your morning news. the writing is superb, if at times grotesque. and it is hilarious too, with some very biting social commentary hidden in there about pro-surfing and pop culture. if I could write as well as Rottmouth I’d be well on my way to more than this.

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identity: part II

I can claim 3 nationalities, all of which celebrate their respective independence in the first week of July. perhaps the hot days of June lead up to revolutions and war.

Venezuela celebrates 200 years today. this is the Chavez flag.

July 4

July 1

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identity: part I

1975 – 1987

I was born in a hospital room in Valera, a small hot and humid city in the state of Trujillo, Venezuela. my American mother was alone when I arrived, my father not allowed to be there. old school.

my father was just recovering from a near death auto accident. t-boned by a drunk driver in Caracas, he was left with a 5 day coma and a full body cast. to this day he has glass from the winshield in his forehead, aches and pains from the bodily harm, and a hell of a story to tell. my mom too was recovering -from a move to a small rural outpost, removed from her big city love, friends, and any connections to her old way of life.

my first 12 and half years were filled with outdoor adventure, fresh fruits, vegetables and meats, heaps of close family, salsa and merengue pulsating from the radio, tales of mystery from the older folks, and following my older brother’s lead -to his discontent.

one day my father announced that we’d soon be leaving Venezuala. we’d be moving to the U.S. to live closer to our maternal grandparents and have an opportunity for a well tuned education. my father somehow sensed the coming demise of the Venezuelan middle class and was out of there in the nick of time.

1987 – 2001

junior high school was a shocker. some of the things I learned included: English as a second language, the definition of ‘dildo’, that blacks and whites were somehow different, that I was a spick come over on a banana boat (my brother’s CV’s radio handle), that we were poor, that my father didn’t get the respect that he merited, that my grandparents were wonderful, and that I loved skateboarding.

high school still easily represents the worst years of my life. most of what I remember that was good had to do with skateboarding and family. I probably started to have an early onset mental illness at this time too, which blurs many memories of those times. I started smoking tobacco at 15 but never really dabbled in other substances. I was petrified by girls even though I managed to have a few girlfriends.

in general life as a Venezuelan/American teenager was confusing at best, self defeating at worst. I struggled with my identity in terms of culture and nationality as well as in my choices of personal interests and style, in a small football loving Southern American town. my parents worked their asses off. my father worked more hours and consecutive days than I care to remember. together they gave everything to their children.

I in return rebelled in appropriate American teen fashion and spoiled any sort of positive relationship I could have had with my well read, well educated, and even-tempered parents.

eventually I went off to university and studied English with a focus on literature. Chester Himes, William Burroughs, Kerouac, Herman Hess, Dostoevsky, V. S. Naipaul, Hemingway, and others began to shape a new view of the world.

I skateboarded and surfed religiously. I had a few failed relationships. I was filled with anxieties and fears -some of which I could identify and others that were latent. I feared growing up, I feared not knowing where I was headed (rather than look ahead with excitement the way many of my good friends did), I feared any commitment whatsoever, I feared people, myself, failure, personal expression, personal growth, religion, cops, and a bunch of other nameable and unnamable things.

there is no better cure for fear than booze and ganja.

to be continued…

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