in the #nothing

at this moment I am deep in the nothing.

communing with nothing. so far in the nothing, that the deeper I go, the faster it gets, the more the nothing feels like nothing.

the reason for this excercise in nothingness?

I can’t go look for waves. instead I will create my own reality through the power of quantum mechanics and other types of mental fuckery.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in absurdity | 8 Comments

on the 3rd morning of the Canadian Surf Film Festival

it’s been only a few months since I ventured back into the land of spirits after an almost two year hiatus. what is it about the booze that makes me feel like I did after confession in Jose Gregorio’s musty church in Isnotu? perhaps it’s the physical discomfort of too much enjoyment -the sour belly and heavy eyelids. or maybe it’s something else all together which I would prefer to venture further into at some other time.

but let I get back to the title of this thing. the Canadian Surf Film Festival. this year I took a back seat and gave up my role as one of the organizers. and it’s been nice to enjoy the films, see all the stoked faces exiting the theater, and of course my favourite part -see surf films on the silver screen.

looks like the boys have done an amazing job this year with packed screenings, events each night, and a jury comprised of some very interesting culture ambassadors of the surfing world.

surfing is a weird part of my life sometimes. it gives as much as it takes. that is why I have tried to limit my activities that don’t include paddling and catching waves. I want to be able to see how good it is to surf -to ride waves. I want to appreciate fully my luck and position to pursue such a lavish thing as riding waves. it’s too easy to take for granted how much joy it brings. or to become wrapped up in external parts of it, tendrils of social expectation reaching around you as you become part of a community. like this space, where over the years I’ve rambled on about surfing and sometimes divulged more than I should have about places and swells.

it must be the fog that keeps these thought tracks zigging and zagging like my kids pencil drawings.

thing is this – community is an integral part of my happiness, or the happiness of all of us I suppose. to commune with others over a shared passion is a beautiful thing. to discuss ideas and with people you just met opens up unending routes for new thought, new ideas. it also extends my community, if only for that moment. one thing is for certain, share waves with someone and you’re likely to be friends for life. and that is a good thing.

maybe Jose Gregorio is still watching over me since I left the Andes. for all the fuckery I’ve gotten up to over the years, I’ve come through mostly unscathed – just that tinge of guilt that’s always there, tucked into a corner of my waking dreams is all I’ve been left with. a small price to pay for a richly live life.

José Gregorio Hernández

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in absurdity, halifax | Leave a comment

#poem: taffy or the feeling you get after

it felt like taffy
chewy and semi-sweet
then it moved through my arms
legs and teeth
the semi-sweetness permeating
it was good, familiar
coming back to it
the peace of knowing what I knew before
the weight of it
the pressure
like a heavy coat with lead lined lapels
it’s all what you’re used to
baseline normal
you know -normal
like how everyone else feels it

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in poetry | 1 Comment

#poem: coffee

I feel the coffee work into my head
I feel it in my sinuses first
then the slow rush of caffeine hits
like the feeling of exhaustion
delirium
it brews slowly like
ale
I used to relish changing my perception
now I do so with trepidation
guilt hangs over me
like mid-summer willows.
do willows loose their leaves?
does coffee come with variations
of mood, desire, anticipation?
the coffee works its way down to my gut
I feel it there like heavy food,
like fried dough.

I used to enjoy changing my perception
guilt hangs over me like bats in a cave
it drifts like summer fog over the cobbled beach
like coffee grounds, now dry in the stove-top
espresso
stuck with steam in a brittle state
I shake them out into the sink
and run the tap
that coffee cake breaks up
into a million grains
and drains down into the sewer
it will join other waste
other things washed down remorseless
coffee works its way
into me
perception changes briefly
I don’t enjoy it much anymore
I only listen to it and observe
like a predatory bird.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in poetry | 2 Comments

Sunday’s song by Cousins – “Speech”

I love this song. so much good music on Southern Souls

 

COUSINS – Speech from Mitch Fillion (southernsouls.ca) on Vimeo.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in music | Leave a comment

a rough and rugged sea would be a reminder of a clear and present time

innocence is lost to the guilty. like water for dry riverbeds, I sift through the dust of a past that was filled with not much and look into a future of unknowns. life grows around me. I take great pleasure in the simplest of things – a hug from the little person in my house who is barely knee high. sometimes I take pleasure in the clouds as they roll in and change the mood of the day. the daily tasks of living hold little sway. instead I dream of dreams deferred. and sometimes I act upon a dream before it careens into the abyss of shoulda coulda’s.

the day outside is somber for a Friday. only a rare bird calls, and aside from passing cars and the eternal whine of electric appliances, all is silent here. I can hear each key as it bottoms out on the stroke. there is a short pause as I make a misstake -and delete back a few strokes to fix it. sometimes, too lazy to pick up the mouse and place the cursor on the offending letter, I delete an entire line and then forget it altogether.

everything is sorta like that I reckon. I’m the only one that thinks about me. we are all critics – of each other and ourselves. narcissism is probably less common than self defeat.

if a mirror lake was a shinning beacon of future tense, then a rough and rugged sea would be a reminder of a clear and present time.

it’s those moments in rough seas, attempting to clamor over boulders, with feet caught between two rocks as a swell of white foamy water comes closer and closer – it’s those moments of near defeat when you don’t stress. and at the right moment you make the choice to hop over the white water and stroke with all your might towards the river current pushing along the point and then past it, into the safety of the deeper bay.

those are moments I think about.

simple pleasures.

like clouds changing the mood of the afternoon.

like tomatoes turning red as the threat of night frosts approach.

like a little boy lifting his bowl with both hands and drinking the rest of his milk, only to slam the empty bowl down with satisfaction declaring

“all gone.”

I remind myself to remember.

these are the days of yore.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in absurdity, ego, prose | 2 Comments

DIY #fins

air bubbles not withstanding, the fin project came out OK. now to wait for a swell to test the theory.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in DIY, surf | 4 Comments

style: Max Romeo – I chase the devil

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in reggae, style | Leave a comment

#mediate

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in music, social commentary | Tagged | Leave a comment

Kelly #Slater (Mattison) 5 fin inspiration

if it works for Slater…. for real though, this board works really well but the wide tail will naturally drift on bigger waves.

so inspired by Slater’s NY event board I made a fin panel and drew a high aspect keel fin using a French curve. it still needs work to finish glassing it on. we’ll see how it works. some of us need all the help we can get. of course Kelly could surf an ironing board.

evidently Kelly got his keel fin from Sean Mattison of VonSol. this is the kind of thing that happens in surfing sometimes – the Campbell brothers had been using 3 fins before Simon Anderson created the thruster. once Anderson won a contest on the thruster then the singlefin and twinfin were dead in the water. I hope that the fin will have the effect that Mattison explains in this video.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in DIY, surf | 1 Comment

style: Mick Sowry

Mick is a humble man. though I only got to spend a little time with Mick in NYC, we’ve stayed in touch over the years and we’ve shared some interesting written exchanges. his blog is always funny and inspirational.

the thing is, it’s not easy to be honest as a writer. honesty is what separates pulp from literature – Hemingway from a sitcom hack. Mick’s posts are sometimes so bare bones honest that I wonder if I will ever have the balls to be a writer.

in any case. Mick also surfs. on the Interwebs there’s always lots of posturing and posing. read the surf mag forum and you’ll see dozens of people touting their surfing abilities when a majority of them haven’t even learned how to generate speed. same things happens sometimes hanging at the surf shop. everyone talks a big game but when the waves get good it quickly shows who’se got game and who is all talk.

Mick is the real deal – his often self deprecating opinion of his surfing ability is trumped by these two photos. triple overhead, condor air drop, to completely poised bottom turn while a huge wall of water sits briefly above him before detonating with tons of pressure.

I grabbed these photos from Mick’s blog. the photos were taken by Ed Sloane.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in style, surf | 3 Comments

alex knost can’t surf

right. this kid has more style than the entire archive of the Sartorialist. boom. and just before you get all high horsed and start double dickin about “look how little those wave are! anyone can surf those waves” etc. go out and try. and maybe check some footage of this skinny kid pulling into way overhead closeout beachies on 9′o hulls. but wait. who cares.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in absurdity, style, surf | Tagged | 2 Comments

#poem: nine

nine times I tried
nine breaths
nine nights
nine strings
tied to guts
nine pains
nine pawns
strolling the grounds
holding guard
nine bandits
nine cotton balls
nine stitches
nine falls
blood drying and
flesh healing
nine nights
old woman dancing
nine drums
old dread burnin’
nine cops
waiting out front
nine lives
I have not

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in poetry | 2 Comments

battle of the editors Cote vs. Phelps

just had a thought that perhaps Chris Cote would like to have Jake Phelps’ cred.

Jake Phelps - Thrasher Magazine


the only similarity seems to be the job description and the glasses. although Thrasher is not what it was when I firsted started reading it in 1987, it is still real deal. Transworld Surf – not so much.

Chris Cote - Transworld Surf


as opinionated and loud as Jake is, and he should be as a magazine editor, he can back it up.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in absurdity, culture, skate, surf | Leave a comment

the #surfboard as #art

say what you will – but this piece of foam and fiberglass is exquisite. hand carved and shaped to become a functional compound curved sculpture. I poached this photo from R. Burch’s blog – bob & sink

asymmetrical tail

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in culture, surf | 1 Comment

shaping surfboards

spent the morning doing some Katia ding repair and I’ve got the bug to shape another board. I don’t see it happenin anytime soon since I’m still without regular work. in the meantime this little video from Korduroy TV gets me psyched.

the BONUS round from cliff kapono on Vimeo.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in DIY, surf | 2 Comments

#identity: part V – the surfer/hipster

I’m going to skip around in the identity chronology because the topic of being a “surfer” has been circling around my noggin like buzzards over carrion. recently I had an email echange with a post doc student on the topic of identity. she is researching identity as it relates to the web. she had this to say:

[I see] …all aspects of identity as (real and valid) roles performed and enacted and brought into being by doing…

I mentioned that I sort of struggled with my different identities – cultural, racial, national and online identity. she followed with a response that has me looking at things very differenrtly:

So I don’t share the same struggles with validity over my online identity: not because it’s not authentic but because I just see it as another part of my identity, like my mothering identity or my Ph.D student identity, both of which are equally disparate and performative.

kook mcKookerson

I have been riding waves since I was 17 years old. there have been some long dry spells since I first learned to surf in 1993 -but surfing has remained a central part of my life the entire time. for much of that time I renounced being a “surfer” however. I never bought into the clothes and accoutrements of the surfer lifestyle. but I definitely had the talk and walk whether I knew it at the time or not.

now, in my mid 30′s, I still wonder about being a surfer and what that means. for as we know, labeling ourselves is the corner stone of our North American culture. it’s the cult of personality, of individuality -where we all end up the same trying to be different.

the hipster movement is the ultimate expression of this ideal – the struggle to seem like you don’t care while at the same time devoting all of one’s energy towards that facade. no one tries harder to apear like they aren’t trying than hipsters do. but I digress.

a good friend of my mine gives me shit, and rightfully so, for being a hipster surfer. I tend to like the quirky equipement that is in mode with the hipster surfer set – hulls, small Simmons inspired quads, single fins, heavy logs, etc. at first I denied this proclivity. “I’m not a fucking hipster just because I ride (insert board type).” one of the more common responses is to say “I was into that shit way before it was COOL.” we get a good laugh over this sort of ribbing. but being into one style of surfing is just like being into another style of surfing. a guy who only rides performance shortboards would not be caught dead riding a Bic on good waves. it would be a fashion faux pass. we are all conscious of our image whether we try hard or not.

so back to identity.

I am a surfer.

there I said it.

I am also a father, a blogger, a slacker, a husband, a cook, a wannabe craftsman, a kook, a Canadian, an American, a Venezuelan, an egotist, a paranoid, a lover of movement, a navel gazer…

most importantly, I am coming to terms with the fact that all of these labels are part of my identity. and I’ve said many times over the years here on Ku Yah “we are defined by how we spend our time.”

like my friend says -our identities are brought into being by doing. it is a performative act.

I’m is what I’m is.

 

seen.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in absurdity, culture, ego, identity, social commentary, style | 4 Comments

homemade quivers, CSFF, Devon Howard, and #singlefins

well this is it. these are my two homemade surfboards. the yellow one is my second shape and by far the best. I’ve ridden it with great success in waist to overhead point breaks. while it may not be great at hard re-direct turns, it sure as hell hauls ass and makes fast waves seem like no problem at all.

the red board was borne out of a ton of different inspirations – perhaps that is why it’s not quite as user friendly. I decided to chop two inches off the tail and then cut a swallow into it to see if I can get it to drift less through turns and perhaps drive a little better off the back foot. I hope to try it out soon as we have a wee swell on the way.

there is a lot of satisfaction in making my own equipment. and it’s even more fun to watch my kid crawl all over them. tonight as we were getting him ready for bed he said he wanted to go surfing. not quite 2 yet, I think what he really meant was “I don’t wanna go to bed.”

the red colour inspiration definitely came from the egg that Devon Howard rides in Mark Jeremias’ One California Day. Devon has a unique style, a blend of smooth Cali cool with a bit of power turning. he makes the red egg seem like the perfect one board quiver.

6'1" & 5'5"

Devon will be on the jury panel of this year’s Canadian Surf Film Festival, along with Scott Hulet, Grant Ellis and Tyler Breuer. I will join SANS prez Justin Huston and the Atlantic Film Festival’s Andrew Murphy on the panel as well.

maybe I’ll get to go for a surf with Devon and learn a thing or two. in the meantime, here’s a clip of Devon riding an old Skip Frye

Posted in culture, DIY, ego, halifax, ras photo, style, surf | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Blasphemy Rottmouth exclusive interview


historically, surf culture and competitive surfing have been devoid of any internal self critique. you read or listen to any interview and it’s always the same shit: ‘yeah he’s a great guy, the nicest guy, and surfs really well…” and so on. it’s essentially a big circle jerk.

but the tides have switched. few unpaid surfing bloggers can rival the work of Blasphemy Rottmouth. his writing is a mix of grotesque and often absurd horror imagery, with some very witty and often right on point criticism about surf culture and professional surfing. his writing is not for everyone, but its impact is felt by those at the top ranks with people like Kelly Slater and Jamie O’Brien often posting links to Rottmouth’s work on their Twitter feeds.

Rottmouth agreed to do a short interview over email. I’ve interviewed many people over the years while writing for Phoresia.org -but this interview is different. it is what it is. but be sure to read between the lines or else you may miss something brilliant.

************************************************************************************************************************************

Q. Blasphemy Rottmouth. That’s a mouthful. Aside from drinking expensive tequila, and writing feverishly about the surf industry – a.k.a. the Circle Jerk – do you prefer a 6’0″ x 18 1/4″ x 2 1/8″ thruster for most days? And are quads relevant?

Chortles. Yes, I suppose I could have picked a little more marketing-friendly moniker, like Frank, for instance… had that been the point. And like my mood swings, my boards range wildly. I generally find the discussion of board sizes to be as exciting as an extended instrumental solo at a Phish concert. The short story is that I ride a variety of boards shaped by a family friend in Oregon. Thrusters to fish to a few eggs. I have a log for the kids. He is as skilled at shaping as I at surfing so the resulting double negative produces prodigious surfing by everyone else in the lineup. And yes, quads have always been and will remain relevant. They may have some difficulty maintaining vertical drive at times… but I find a little lubricant applied liberally to the wheels will help these poor, paralyzed people when they’re rolled down a grade in excess of 5%. Watching them steer with those straw-shaped toggles is a sight to behold. Intense at times. I may have a dark sense of humor… but I will not tolerate anyone who questions the relevance of quads. They are people too.

Q. And did you and Donnie Darko ever cavort with trolls while planning fire bombings of ASP Tour events on the mainland?

I’ve been admonishing Donnie for years… that destruction is a form of creation… but like the ASP, he doesn’t listen. With few exceptions, mainland USA is not a premiere destination for surfers interested in that commodity more precious than life itself: waves. Let the minor leagues bojangle for The Industry in their front yards. Far more consistently excellent to epic waves in the world abound to bother the best with mediocrity. Mediocrity is for The Industry. Follow the waves, Association of Surfing Professionals, and let the lucre follow you.

Q. Seriously though. Recently you’ve been getting comments from people like Sal Masekela regarding your call for the ASP to dissolve its current format and provide the fans with “the best surfers on the best waves.” It seems that you’ve touched on a nerve. And the guys defending the ASP, and I suppose they are also defending their income, seem to think that bloggers are just malcontents with horrific childhoods. What influence do surf fans have through the democratization of surf media via blogs and social media?

This nerve has been poked and prodded long before I became cognizant of the surfing blogosphere. I simply supplied a surgeon’s drill and sank that sucker right into the root and set the switch to puree.  Unlike some of you, I was both born and consciously functioning during the Eighties. I recall the particular blight on cultural sensibility with crystal clarity. In the Age of Neon, surf magazines began catering to The Industry and inbreeding themselves like mountaineers in the clefts of the Ozarks. Stories became propaganda pieces designed to promote the endless Industry tentacles that wormed their imperialistic way across the Indian Ocean and South Pacific. Yours truly was pulled into the all-consuming, Charybdan groupthink of the age, with its Ralph Lauren wetsuit color palettes and its armies of More Core pseudo rebellion. If I could give my right leg to go back in time and apply jumper cables to the surf media’s testicles until any inkling of having a surf tour run by the major corporations was burnt out of them, I would happily change my name to Blasphemy Q. Purtymouth.

Alas, the beauty of the 21st century is an unprecedented awareness and confluence of thought, as well as access to virtually every opinion of the last eighty years. The surf media’s steadfast abandonment on this independence in favor of choosing antiquated models is just abhorrent judgment. Naturally, some captains of this poppycockery will go down with their ship. Luckily, as my Daddy Rottmouth taught me, there is no repugnant judgment that cannot be cured with a length of rubber hose and a night in The Box.

Q. Do you think Lewis Samuels and PostSurf had any effect on surf media and the Circle Jerk? Or was he slipped under the mosquito net like dengue fever?

Lewis Samuels certainly had an effect. That’s clearly seen in the small number of independent blogs that have arisen, voicing various concerns and lifting comment censorship on their posts to allow others a similar voice. Again, the effect of PostSurf merely enhanced the voices of fans. It’s the affect I’m worried about. Andy Irons death was the litmus test of the decade for the real surfing media… journalists in particular, and they failed most miserably. The only attempt at mining The Truth came from sources outside surfing’s elite, via Brad Melekian and Fred Pawle. And those men were dealt a harsh backhand from the sheep in The Industry for their efforts… a sure sign they were doing something right.

Lewis’ PostSurf fallout fell largely on the newly emboldened vocal chords of average surf fans, much to the consternation of the “surfy surfy” bubble-bound members of the surf media. As Lord Macaulay said, “a great writer is the friend and benefactor of his readers.” Though Lewis seemed to resent his own readers; hearty souls from the well-educated, to the working class, blue-collar blokes felt a connection with Samuels’ Industry disillusionment. His blog set the blueprint for the Voice of the Fan… something that has been shop-worn for ages in virtually every other sport, but was new as a kitten in the throes of amniotic bliss to an insular and insecure surfing world at the time.

I have no idea what Lewis is doing now… but I give him credit for busting down surfing’s backdoor for the fans: unfiltered thoughts in posts and unfiltered commentary below. Just like the campfire or bar after a surf session. Simple strokes for simple folks.

Q. I can only assume that some of your fans are surf industry folks who perhaps agree with your sardonic viewpoints about the back slapping and self-congratulatory industry -the Circle Jerk.  So why does the train keep chugging along? I mean look at skateboarding and the X-Games. None of my friends who skate could give two shits about the X-Games (sure we’re in our 30′s but so is Sal). Free surfing is as much a Circle Jerk as the Pro Tour. Where is the anti-social spirit of surfing gone to?

Surfers love overemphasizing their anti-social spirit of yore and their toddling stewardship of an ancient ocean. Yet surfing is an extremely pro-social activity… given that the act of riding waves (the only true anti-social portion) is a tiny fraction of the overall experience. On land, surfers turn into the same slaves to civilization as everyone else. Compliant robots created out of misguided overeducates posing as protesters with a mission for yea those few fragmented seconds of history before bowing miserably at the feet of The Industry’s instruments of death.

Miki Dora -anti social surf icon

Surfers spend most of their lives reenacting their surfing experiences with friends and family at the bar, around the campfire, and now… on the internet. Socialization. Not many people score great waves and never share the story.

The anti-social aspect of surfing is gone. Like tears in the rain. Like punk rock. Like Andy Irons. Some things can’t be replaced. If you want to be rebellious: avoid tattoos, wear boardshorts sewn by the seamstress down the street, and design a spaceship that will take you beyond earth’s decaying atmosphere.

Q. Will you tire of the hours of unpaid work you put into this project?

Realistically, I tire of it about once or twice a week. Not the money aspect – this… this thing, has never been a financial endeavor. Taking a few moments to blog does tax a bit mentally… depending on real life. I’ve even quit, with the intention of never returning, at least twice over the last two years. This abomination certainly is not bound for immortality. Like the human body, it was dying since the moment it was born. One morning, I shall wake up, type my last words and return to the comforting shadows in my head. For now it remains as it was upon conception: catharsis for a very disturbed mind.

Q. You’re obviously a big fan of competitive surfing. How do you think that competitive surfing could change? Kelly’s idea of creating a league similar to the NBA or NFL seemed to hold promise. It would take away power from the clothing companies who now run things – Quick-bong-rip-hurl. And what about the whole free-surfing scene -where do people who can’t compete (Dane) fit in?


My thoughts on professional surfing are paradoxical. I believe the profession should be more professional via less direct Industry penetration, and less professional by harnessing the excitement of free surfing. Would this not appeal more to the Dane’s and JO’B’s of the world? The Backdoor Shootout format bears the closest resemblance to my unoriginal vision: A round-robin template, with more competitors in heats and no early eliminations, coupled with compiled points over a series of hour long heats through two days… perhaps three to maximize typical swell windows. Highest compiled score would certainly reflect the best overall surfer in that span while avoiding fluky flat spells that doom some thirty minute heats. I would dog-pile on Mike Mantalos’ idea of treating the tour like an ultimate surf trip; meaning destinations with the highest statistical probability of scoring the best possible waves, longer waiting periods with a mobile team ready to move as soon as the swell charts light up. Modern technology is friend, not foe. Look at Bong’s Teahupo’o webcast. They simply followed something The Fans have been asking for eons: real heats on demand. In a modest, yet simplistically brilliant step, they televised portions of a free surf and tow day. And lastly, I would support Kelly and Mantalos’ idea of a sovereign league, whereby the ASP ran the events, the webcast, and the judges… and let the money chase the product. This format, in theory, would entice more progression while still creating the excitement of a live event. The free-surfing, YouTube scene could remain as is… a vapor trail feeding Generation ADD’s fix. Speaking of which, it’s about time for my nurse to bring me my Ritalin®.

Q. I can imagine that you have a great time writing some of your posts – like the Dance Macabre. You also indulge your readers in some poignant social criticism. Many of your views about pro-surfing could be a metaphor for pop culture as a whole. So what do you think? Are we fucked? Was humanity ever humanist? Does anyone really care or ever cared about where we’re headed? Feel free to answer this one after a few shots of Mezcal.

Living things existed long before humans – living things will continue to exist long after humans. I do believe that a less material existence is our proper life, and that our futile presence on this terraqueous orb is itself an ancillary, or merely virtual phenomenon. Life is, at its base, a hideous thing. And with each successive demonic hint of historical truth we discover, that hideousness increases a thousandfold. Science, already employed by despotic corporations willing to bargain with the vampires of the deep, will perhaps be the ultimate exterminator of our species – for its reserve of unimaginable horrors could never be borne forth by mortal brains if loosed upon the world.

Under the pretense of compassion, The Industry seeks to re-enslave the once-liberated… shoveling them off into trailer parks, assembly-line McMansions, or government housing. Detained like Petsmart® parakeets, too afraid to fly through gaping cage doors, the cruel chiefs break the collar bones of those foolish enough to seek immunity, and withhold sustenance and lotto tickets from those who refuse to pay homage to the Wretched Entity.

And yet we soldier on. We humble few.

 

***********************************************************************************************************************************************************************

special thanks to Mr. Rottmouth for the interview, the laughs, and the introspection.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in absurdity, social commentary, surf | 7 Comments

The Surf Magazines Don’t Talk About Lapsed Catholics

-just read an interview with Tyler Breuer on the Canadian Surf Film Festival site. He talks about his favourite films and includes Lapsed Catholics.

…Lapsed Catholics: What the Surf Magazines Don’t Tell you by Toddy Stewart. The guy is a legend.

I had the opportunity to see Lapsed Catholics on the big screen at Tribeca in New York City. the short expresses some feelings about surfing which I’d never seen articulated before. and the metaphor for me is fitting since I am a lapsed Catholic.

click on the photo to see the film at EBNY

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in social commentary, surf | Tagged | 3 Comments

#cigarettes …now that I quit

I smoked cigarettes for almost 15 years. pack a day for a lot of those. but now that I quit…

I love this Jim Jarmusch short.


Tom Waits _ Iggy Pop – Coffee and Cigarettes by mugu_77

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in absurdity, culture, random, style | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Tom Neilson ‘Tommy Evans’ model review

it’s very likely that if I still lived in Florida I would mostly only get boards from Tom Neilson.

why? why not! Tom is a master shaper with over 30 years of shaping experience. he surfs way better ‘n me. he can shape anything. and he works with just about every available material and technology out there.

below are photos of a 9’6″ Tommy Evans model that Tom made for me a little while ago.

I’ve ridden the board 3 times now. two different right points and one left point. yesterday provided the best waves with some groundswell from Irene. waves were waist high plus and peeling perfectly, albeit dangerously close to a cobble lined shoreline which would certainly destroy a board.

the verdict? first let me start by saying that I had in mind a flat rockered, thin egg-railed, heavily glassed log. when I spoke with Tom he told me about this model which he’s been working on for some time now with team rider Tommy. it nose rides like a dream he assured, and it also does other things well.

I’ve ordered enough custom boards over the years to learn to trust my shaper and not force my own measurements upon the creation.

the dims are above in the stringer photo but I can also add that is has double 8 oz. Volan cloth on the deck and a single 8 oz. on the bottom. the blank used is a US Blank Yater blank which comes with a really flat rocker.

the bottom is the most intereting part of this board. it has the traditional nose concave for lift while nose riding. it has belly throughout the middle as most boards of this type tend to. then it flattens out and it has a bit of single concave running out the back of the board. the tail is also super foiled and has quite a kick in the rocker. the other strange element for this type of board was the rail profile. the board features full box type rails with a slight edge in the tail.

now I would have thought that the rail and single concave would create lift and release and make the board outrun the wave when nose riding. but I was totally wrong. what those features do do, is to give a heavy and flat log the ability to turn and drive down the line – unlike a knifey log would.

so look I’m no amazing surfer. I can ride this thing without a leash and get the odd toes over the tip, but I’m an average surfer at best. this board does satisfy my interest in having a heavy trim feeling. there is nothing like the glide you get from a super heavy log. on top of that I am abe to turn it from the back and even from the middle like you would a displacement hull. Tom is sending me a 10″ Greenough 4A fin that didn’t make it with the board shipment. I think the fin will allow the board to draw some beautiful turns while still providing enough hold not nose riding.

so yes, the board is SICK.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in ras photo, surf | 3 Comments

non-conundrum

now that summer is here
it’s almost gone.

I can hear the rumbling cobbles now
as nor’easters detonate
on winter shores.

hurricanes?
they are like that pretty girl
in your class in college
she’d smile once a twice
but you’d rarely get more
‘n that.

so I start to think about
winter sticks
one that is sleek ‘n fast
but not so quirky
that I falter half the time

it’s such a mental thing
surfing is.
they all work
you just gotta find that one that
fits

no that’s not it
you just gotta go
paddle out
and be thankful
you got that far.

  • Twitter
  • Facebook
Posted in poetry, surf | 3 Comments