it’s been only a few months since I ventured back into the land of spirits after an almost two year hiatus. what is it about the booze that makes me feel like I did after confession in Jose Gregorio’s musty church in Isnotu? perhaps it’s the physical discomfort of too much enjoyment -the sour belly and heavy eyelids. or maybe it’s something else all together which I would prefer to venture further into at some other time.
but let I get back to the title of this thing. the Canadian Surf Film Festival. this year I took a back seat and gave up my role as one of the organizers. and it’s been nice to enjoy the films, see all the stoked faces exiting the theater, and of course my favourite part -see surf films on the silver screen.
looks like the boys have done an amazing job this year with packed screenings, events each night, and a jury comprised of some very interesting culture ambassadors of the surfing world.
surfing is a weird part of my life sometimes. it gives as much as it takes. that is why I have tried to limit my activities that don’t include paddling and catching waves. I want to be able to see how good it is to surf -to ride waves. I want to appreciate fully my luck and position to pursue such a lavish thing as riding waves. it’s too easy to take for granted how much joy it brings. or to become wrapped up in external parts of it, tendrils of social expectation reaching around you as you become part of a community. like this space, where over the years I’ve rambled on about surfing and sometimes divulged more than I should have about places and swells.
it must be the fog that keeps these thought tracks zigging and zagging like my kids pencil drawings.
thing is this – community is an integral part of my happiness, or the happiness of all of us I suppose. to commune with others over a shared passion is a beautiful thing. to discuss ideas and with people you just met opens up unending routes for new thought, new ideas. it also extends my community, if only for that moment. one thing is for certain, share waves with someone and you’re likely to be friends for life. and that is a good thing.
maybe Jose Gregorio is still watching over me since I left the Andes. for all the fuckery I’ve gotten up to over the years, I’ve come through mostly unscathed – just that tinge of guilt that’s always there, tucked into a corner of my waking dreams is all I’ve been left with. a small price to pay for a richly live life.

José Gregorio Hernández


















I’ve been admonishing Donnie for years… that destruction is a form of creation… but like the ASP, he doesn’t listen. With few exceptions, mainland USA is not a premiere destination for surfers interested in that commodity more precious than life itself: waves. Let the minor leagues bojangle for The Industry in their front yards. Far more consistently excellent to epic waves in the world abound to bother the best with mediocrity. Mediocrity is for The Industry. Follow the waves, Association of Surfing Professionals, and let the lucre follow you.
This nerve has been poked and prodded long before I became cognizant of the surfing blogosphere. I simply supplied a surgeon’s drill and sank that sucker right into the root and set the switch to puree. Unlike some of you, I was both born and consciously functioning during the Eighties. I recall the particular blight on cultural sensibility with crystal clarity. In the Age of Neon, surf magazines began catering to The Industry and inbreeding themselves like mountaineers in the clefts of the Ozarks. Stories became propaganda pieces designed to promote the endless Industry tentacles that wormed their imperialistic way across the Indian Ocean and South Pacific. Yours truly was pulled into the all-consuming, Charybdan groupthink of the age, with its Ralph Lauren wetsuit color palettes and its armies of More Core pseudo rebellion. If I could give my right leg to go back in time and apply jumper cables to the surf media’s testicles until any inkling of having a surf tour run by the major corporations was burnt out of them, I would happily change my name to Blasphemy Q. Purtymouth.









in the #nothing
at this moment I am deep in the nothing.
communing with nothing. so far in the nothing, that the deeper I go, the faster it gets, the more the nothing feels like nothing.
the reason for this excercise in nothingness?
I can’t go look for waves. instead I will create my own reality through the power of quantum mechanics and other types of mental fuckery.