Category Archives: health

Rio Breaks

some of us have it really easy. I give thanks all the time for a great childhood, amazing parents, solid friends, a beautiful wife, a rad kid, and a surfing lifestyle. RIO BREAKS Official Trailer #1 from the infantry on Vimeo.
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lessons at 35

yesterday B and I watched our son takes his first steps. it was interesting to see him test his confidence in balancing alone. he has the mechanics down but his experience is yet to come. I on the other hand went for a ten mile run to celebrate my 35 years of life. self propulsion [...]
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managing happiness

yep. that is correct. happiness can, and has to be managed. and it can only be done by the boss. Me. you see, I am the one who gets easily excited. whether it’s a good thing or bad, I get worked up pretty quick. so? well the fallout is that I tend to lose focus [...]
Also posted in absurdity | 5 Comments

simple times

this morning as I watched the red sun rise out of the ocean I wondered to myself why wouldn’t/shouldn’t I try and aspire to a simple and quiet life? why do I always feel the need to strive? well I know the answer to that question –it is in fact a cultural expectation. so then [...]
Also posted in absurdity, prose | 4 Comments

dun it

six months ago, after the second hangover in less than two weeks, I decided I would not have another drink. am I an alcoholic? who knows. the definitions are many and at the end of the day I don’t give a fuck. it’s not hard to abstain from drink. there weren’t any cold sweats or [...]
Also posted in absurdity, DIY | 2 Comments

hand shaping intentional living

things have been hectic. a rogue boss, too many side projects, and other trivialities have blurred my resolve and perhaps even allowed some doubt to creep in where it’s not been missed for some time. nevertheless the things that we love always resurface to overcome the things we care little about. so I have a [...]
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4 outta 5

suns I greeted immersed in the north Atlantic 4 outta 5 waves I rode to the beach 4 outta 5 times I remembered to let it go 4 outta 5 times I tune in to I system
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holly shit

I’ve been busy. if you know me then you know I don’t love busy. I love down time to chat and mellow and surf and be with my family doing a whole heap of little nothings. aside from my job I’ve been writing several blogs. all of the blogs I do are on a volunteer [...]
Also posted in absurdity, social commentary | Tagged | 3 Comments

flowing to zion

as I get more straight headed and my equilibrium peaks I begin to feel things differently. I always come back to the senses. the five –touch, smell, feel, see and hear. these are the tools to full living. there is so much beauty and goodness to experience every day. the Rastaman believes that heaven should [...]
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birds and fish

Life, according to Zen, ought to be lived as a bird flies through the air, or as a fish swims in the water. D.T. Suzuki (1870 – 1966) today JB and I made the short trek to see how low tide would fare with the small swell lines showing on the models. we brought longboards. [...]
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squander not time

my good friend asked what it means to me to squander time. Bob Andy says that the more you give to life the more you get from life. there are so many obvious truths. there is no suffering without joy. we cannot know true happiness without ever being truly sad. so perhaps to squander time [...]
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time & I

You can do anything you want to do. What is rare is this actual wanting to do a specific thing: wanting it so much that you are practically blind to all other things, that nothing else will satisfy you. Robert Henri this morning under the blue bird skies I peddled slow so as not to [...]
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gotham city crew

had some good sessions this last swell. the models were showing a big system hovering over us for longer than usual. we got three days of solid SE swell. TB and Mr. P were on a pilgrimage of the East Coast with stops in Mass and Maine before ending up here in Nova Scotia. seasoned [...]
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