Category Archives: absurdity

#prose: Brooklyn remembered

watching from a afar, like window shopping with empty coffers, I see it all slide by. once a participant, now a voyeur. life can be measured in many ways. we measure from within as they measure from without. the numbers never match. the bookie is out and can’t be reached. so I walk down to [...]
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#identity part VI: this is it

summer comes to an end and so does the time spent hanging off ladders with brush and paint helping Picasso work on his livable canvases. what now? there was a time when I was naively carefree. I would go about my days without any intentionality and never felt like something was amis. those days are [...]
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#interview

I have an interview this week for a job like one of my favourite writers used to have. so I thought it’d be good to quote from his novel Post Office. this one is loaded with implications about our dull lives of tryin to make it. “The streets were full of insane and dull people. Most of [...]
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enjoy the momentary rain

today -a deluge. our basement wet in that low corner where the hill meets the high side of the house. out at the seaside it was all wind and a foggy mist. Picasso and I added the last few strokes to the livable canvas. the finished piece a cornucopia of colour like south coast Jamaica. [...]
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jettisoned by the “rocket queen”

was painting with Picasso today. we sat atop a bluff overlooking a blustery ocean. with wind gusts upwards of 30 knotts outta the south, the ocean looked as welcoming as a bed of nails. to make light of the situation, Picasso ran us through some music of yore. Glenn Danzig carried us for a while [...]
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#lifekook 1.0

life kook: 1. lifetime ‘fail’ surfer poser -I.E. “wow look at that guy’s whack style. he’s totally a life kook.” 2. one who never makes the takeoff on a set wave- though he always paddles “to the top.” 3. one who posts a video of himself, riding his home-shaped board, and thinks it’s cool.
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a sad day for surf writing: @Rottmouth quits

Blasphemy Rottmouth has posted his final thoughts in the form of an interview. Why was his blog important to surfing? The following passage sums it up: If you could sum up Independent Blogging in the surfing world with a few words, what would they be? Andy Irons. Simple. The handling (or mishandling) of that story [...]
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in the #nothing

at this moment I am deep in the nothing. communing with nothing. so far in the nothing, that the deeper I go, the faster it gets, the more the nothing feels like nothing. the reason for this excercise in nothingness? I can’t go look for waves. instead I will create my own reality through the [...]
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on the 3rd morning of the Canadian Surf Film Festival

it’s been only a few months since I ventured back into the land of spirits after an almost two year hiatus. what is it about the booze that makes me feel like I did after confession in Jose Gregorio’s musty church in Isnotu? perhaps it’s the physical discomfort of too much enjoyment -the sour belly [...]
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a rough and rugged sea would be a reminder of a clear and present time

innocence is lost to the guilty. like water for dry riverbeds, I sift through the dust of a past that was filled with not much and look into a future of unknowns. life grows around me. I take great pleasure in the simplest of things – a hug from the little person in my house [...]
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alex knost can’t surf

right. this kid has more style than the entire archive of the Sartorialist. boom. and just before you get all high horsed and start double dickin about “look how little those wave are! anyone can surf those waves” etc. go out and try. and maybe check some footage of this skinny kid pulling into way [...]
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battle of the editors Cote vs. Phelps

just had a thought that perhaps Chris Cote would like to have Jake Phelps’ cred. the only similarity seems to be the job description and the glasses. although Thrasher is not what it was when I firsted started reading it in 1987, it is still real deal. Transworld Surf – not so much. as opinionated [...]
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#identity: part V – the surfer/hipster

I’m going to skip around in the identity chronology because the topic of being a “surfer” has been circling around my noggin like buzzards over carrion. recently I had an email echange with a post doc student on the topic of identity. she is researching identity as it relates to the web. she had this [...]
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Blasphemy Rottmouth exclusive interview

historically, surf culture and competitive surfing have been devoid of any internal self critique. you read or listen to any interview and it’s always the same shit: ‘yeah he’s a great guy, the nicest guy, and surfs really well…” and so on. it’s essentially a big circle jerk. but the tides have switched. few unpaid [...]
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#cigarettes …now that I quit

I smoked cigarettes for almost 15 years. pack a day for a lot of those. but now that I quit… I love this Jim Jarmusch short. Tom Waits _ Iggy Pop – Coffee and Cigarettes by mugu_77
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style: Joel Tudor

rode my new log this morning and got that really good giddy feeling of glide. then I saw this photo of Joel Tudor and…
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#Identity part III: the break

this is a continuation of a series on identity I started a few weeks ago. 1999- 2000 from August of 1999 until December of 2000 I was completely lost inna haze of mal-prescribed psychopharmcalogy, high-grade trees, and booze. for several months I didn’t work and instead smoked a lot cigarettes, drank excessively, surfed little, smoked [...]
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polyester – film

one day we will no longer be riding polyester surfboards. they are toxic as fuck, cannot be recycled, and are made from non-renewable sources. but like a good friend of mine once said when the topic of declining bluefin tuna came up: well I guess I better eat it while I still can. so without [...]
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#jazz : enter Pharoah

it’s not quite late on a saturday night. I put the boy to bed after a late night reveling at a wedding. he played hard and then fought hard to go to sleep. under two, and completely fueled by passion. do you remember those days? of course not. our minds not developed for storing anything [...]
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post post

so after it’s all been said and done – it gets said and done again. it’s a post eat post world if you know what I mean. some call it surf blogging. I call it what it is. time wastin. surfing is riding waves -nothing more, nothing less. everything else is cultural artifacts, contrived capital, [...]
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easy like….

rain pitter patters outta my window. with little and highly interrupted sleep, I trudge through the morning like an older man than I am. I quickly regress to memories from before – a realization of reminiscing about the past strikes me like a cold hard hand across the face. ‘these are the good old days’ [...]
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identity: part I

1975 – 1987 I was born in a hospital room in Valera, a small hot and humid city in the state of Trujillo, Venezuela. my American mother was alone when I arrived, my father not allowed to be there. old school. my father was just recovering from a near death auto accident. t-boned by a [...]
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#poem: the visceral realists vs. Batman

the masked man sits upon a stoop. Gotham lays below him like morning puke, from a night revelers bad tidings. down there, amongst the thugs and hipsters is a small bar. aside from the three old timers taking up interspersed space, there is a group of youngsters. not hip enough to be cool, too cool [...]
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