#identity part VI: this is it

summer comes to an end and so does the time spent hanging off ladders with brush and paint helping Picasso work on his livable canvases. what now?

there was a time when I was naively carefree. I would go about my days without any intentionality and never felt like something was amis. those days are gone. the carefree meandering through days and weeks is still there. but the mongrel gnawing at my conscience is telling me that time is not to be squandered without regret.

from an early age I rejected religion. literally. I was asked to stop coming to Sunday school in junior high. the wonderful volunteer teacher felt threatened by my incessant questioning of the rhetoric and felt afraid that I’d make doubters of the rest of the flock.

somehow I eventually learned about Buddhist philosophy. and I suppose that some of Hindu thought and Japanese Zazen have fostered similar patterns in my thought lines. I’ve concluded that a pluralistic society is what we live in and that the myth of a morally evolutionary humanity is akin to that of the American Dream – if you work hard enough you get the reward. absurd at best.

it is what it is.

as simple as this sentence is I find it brilliant every time I write it. we can quickly over complicate things as trivial as a morning coffee.

some of our determination to find consternation in the banality of life comes from a lack of living; a sense of not knowing what it means to subsist -to satisfy your primal need for food, safety and shelter.

Thoreau knew this when he wrote about Walden Pond in the 1850′s – prior to the industrial revolution and without an inkling about the population expansion and subsequent degradation of our ecosystem that would come in the next 150 years.

about our ‘things’ that we cherish and toil long hours for he had this to say:

“Most of the luxuries and many of the so-called comforts of life are not only not indispensable, but positive hindrances to the elevation of mankind.”

I suppose Thoreau believed in the possibility for an evolution of mankind. and I think he meant a moral evolution, one where egalitarian values and a reverence for our environment would trump the pursuit of wealth accumulation. he was wrong.

the democritization of comunocations has made it so that we exist in a global community, with information about most corners of our world a simple search engine query away. but do we live in a global community or do we live in our own immediate community? environmentalists and humanists would argue that it is global. that we should all strive for often arbitrary goals, supported by scientific evidence, waiting to be discredited by new scientific evidence.

I aks you this – is not love, compassion and friendship still meaningful? if you say yes then the beauty is that we can find those values in our local communities. the same way that we cannot control the coming and going of ice ages, we cannot control the growth and repercussions of the human race. but we can enjoy our existence in the space and time we find ourselves. and that is as simple as making the choice to do so.

I’ve often had people tell me that I am very lucky for having something I am infinitely passionate about -surfing. I think they have misjudged. I am infinitely passionate about living. I want to feel with all my senses. I want to love with all of my energies the way my kid and my dog love me. I want to see how far my own faculties, my blood and guts and tendons, and my intellect can take me. but not for the purpose of wealth accumulation or social status, but because I am infinitely amazed by the things I can learn to do and overcome.

I am here right now.

this is it.

the future does not exist.

the past cannot be relived.

this is it.

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7 Comments

  1. Posted 27.10.11 at 11:28 am | Permalink

    Indeed, indeed, indeed. It is the journey that is life, you never get there, you’re just always riding. I’m happy right now, I know one day I will be sad when I lose close family and friends so I am content to live in the moment, not worry about the future, take everything that gets thrown at me (redundancy, broken back, losing house in space of 3 years) and enjoy the simple pleasures. Afterall I once did worry about the future all the time and it made me depressed as hell and didn’t get me anywhere. Now I take a day at a time and it’s brilliant. No I don’t have much money and really could live out of a suitcase as don’t own much of any value, well apart from my acoustic guitar which is my one true indulgence.

    Enjoy the ride. Loved your post today which helped my ride along nicely.

    Peace Josh

  2. ras
    Posted 27.10.11 at 12:07 pm | Permalink

    thanks Josh. I find that a lot of times I write stuff like this to remind me to live it. it’s easy to forget and live in the past or future. especially with long lulls in swell.

  3. lawless
    Posted 27.10.11 at 3:10 pm | Permalink

    Indeed. I think the hardest part is just realizing this everyday.

    As I toil away at my desk I realize I am squandering this beautiful day, but my inaction is my own making and the realization of that is the worst part about it.

  4. Posted 28.10.11 at 5:19 am | Permalink

    when you go slowly every moment seems longer :)

    Eef

  5. R
    Posted 28.10.11 at 9:13 pm | Permalink

    Just read this: Chris and i once talked about how your only competitor is yourself, fuck everybody else, just be the best you want to be. It’s not the grades, screw that mentality, it’s that feeling of having no regrets, not resorting to saying “i should have”.

    Here: http://chromaheart.wordpress.com/

    Don’t entirely agree but do respect that position.

    Saludos y abrazo,

    R.

  6. ras
    Posted 28.10.11 at 10:45 pm | Permalink

    R

    el problema es que los valores, y momentos de realisacion en alog escrito como lo de arrivba, desaparecen comu el humo pesado de un fogon cociendo cochino frito.

    y habeces eso me da la idea de que cuando escribo es solo un acto egoista. es una manera de hablar y hablar para que todos lo oigan. pero no lo vivo. casi nunca lo vivo.

  7. R
    Posted 29.10.11 at 10:26 am | Permalink

    Pues eso esta muy bien. Coincido contigo, lo que nos da la edad y la experiencia, entre otras cosas, es el comprender la transitoriedad de los momentos que componen la vida y el valor del presente como única realidad.

    Y también pienso yo que el escribir es un acto esencialmente egoista, pero, y allí esta esa especie de magia menor, es un acto egoista que puede ser aprovechado, entendido y adoptado por otros. Uno no escribe para los demás, escribe para si mismo, y el descubrir en lo que otros escribieron para ellos algo de uno mismo, es lo que hace que funcione.

    El egoismo es bueno. El secreto del escribir, creo yo, es dominar la tecnica para entonces poder transmitir sin pensar demasiado. La vida se vive, el escribir se padece.

    All the things worth learning are tedious, tiresome or boring to master, but it is only when we have aquired the skill that we can begin to enjoy them.

    Goes for surfing.
    Goes for rock-climbing.
    Goes for writing.

    Okay. Maybe not for sufing which I understant is full of intensity, fun and thrills from day one. Hahaha! Please, switch that to, “Goes for surf board craftmanship”.

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  • lexicon

    KU: (verb) look!
    YAH: hear, or here
    origin: Jamaica patois

  • worldview

    "At any street corner the feeling of absurdity can strike any man in the face." Albert Camus