it’s easy to realize how lucky I am once I get to my desk on monday and look back. I am indeed one of the luckiest men on earth.
saturday I had a short window to surf so I took the chance on a spot that I’d known to work on small east swells. sure enough, chest high perfect glassy faces with rip-able walls were coming in outta the east. it was an amazing little session. my mind was clear enough to work on maintaining speed off the bottom as I pushed through top turns. nothing solid yet but I can feel them coming. buried the nose on a couple reos and ate shit -lessons learned.
the rest of the weekend was spent laughing and playing with my shine-eye-girl and our son.
it’s the simplest of things that bring joy. how easy it is to forget.
often it is said that surfing produces nothing. perhaps that is true, a surfing life produces nothing tangible. but the things we give up to live at the whims of winds, tides and swell ensure a simplicity in our daily lives that allows moments of peace to shine forth like the morning star out of the darkness of night.