it’s easy to realize how lucky I am once I get to my desk on monday and look back. I am indeed one of the luckiest men on earth.
saturday I had a short window to surf so I took the chance on a spot that I’d known to work on small east swells. sure enough, chest high perfect glassy faces with rip-able walls were coming in outta the east. it was an amazing little session. my mind was clear enough to work on maintaining speed off the bottom as I pushed through top turns. nothing solid yet but I can feel them coming. buried the nose on a couple reos and ate shit -lessons learned.
the rest of the weekend was spent laughing and playing with my shine-eye-girl and our son.
it’s the simplest of things that bring joy. how easy it is to forget.
often it is said that surfing produces nothing. perhaps that is true, a surfing life produces nothing tangible. but the things we give up to live at the whims of winds, tides and swell ensure a simplicity in our daily lives that allows moments of peace to shine forth like the morning star out of the darkness of night.
lucky in the East
it’s easy to realize how lucky I am once I get to my desk on monday and look back. I am indeed one of the luckiest men on earth.
saturday I had a short window to surf so I took the chance on a spot that I’d known to work on small east swells. sure enough, chest high perfect glassy faces with rip-able walls were coming in outta the east. it was an amazing little session. my mind was clear enough to work on maintaining speed off the bottom as I pushed through top turns. nothing solid yet but I can feel them coming. buried the nose on a couple reos and ate shit -lessons learned.
the rest of the weekend was spent laughing and playing with my shine-eye-girl and our son.
it’s the simplest of things that bring joy. how easy it is to forget.
often it is said that surfing produces nothing. perhaps that is true, a surfing life produces nothing tangible. but the things we give up to live at the whims of winds, tides and swell ensure a simplicity in our daily lives that allows moments of peace to shine forth like the morning star out of the darkness of night.